Backcountry Skiing & Snowboarding in the Canadian Rockies

Brewsters Shadow Lake Lodge, Banff National Park, Alberta (photo courtesy of Brewsters)

Lodge Directories:
Banff, AB | Lake Louise, AB | Golden, BC | Jasper, AB | Hinton, AB

As well as being noted for its world—class resort hotels, the Canadian Rockies (covering part of Alberta and British Columbia) also is famous for another type of accommodation—the backcountry lodge. For many people their image of the ideal Canadian Rockies vacation includes rustic lodges with accommodations in log—constructed cabins. Indeed the Canadian Rockies does have a great range of cabin style accommodations. These range from very basic to very elaborate—and everything in between. However, the real qualification for a backcountry adventure lodge is a remote location amongst awesome scenery, the close proximity and availability of some type of wilderness adventure experience, and, no matter how luxurious, a casual ambience.

A seemingly rustic exterior can be somewhat deceptive because these properties can be deluxe with the last word in finely appointed accommodations and gourmet dining, or they can be truly primitive with no indoor plumbing and very basic facilities. Most lodges fall somewhere between the two extremes. They all offer a memorable experience.

A Typical Backcountry Lodge Experience

	The Lobby at Heather Mountain Lodge, Golden, BC (photo courtesy of Heather Mountain Lodge)

Imagine staying in such a place — miles from the nearest large town or city, or perhaps even the nearest highway. Wake up the first morning to a magnificent sunrise and then enjoy a fine and filling breakfast in the main lodge building. After breakfast the ingredients for a fine picnic lunch are made available for guests to choose from to take with them for the day's activities. It's simply a question of packing as much or as little as a person wants. Activities vary considerably depending on the season and the particular lodge. Some of the possibilities will be covered later in this article.

After a day's activity, or alternatively a day's relaxation in the proximity of the lodge, guests return from mid to late afternoon. At some lodges, tea and cakes or pastries are served before guests return to their rooms or cabins to relax for a while and perhaps take a hot bath or sauna or Jacuzzi. Dinner is the social high point of the day. While lodges are always casual, of those that provide food, it is usually of a very high standard and includes carefully prepared, sometimes gourmet quality food. Bread and cakes and pastries are usually baked on the premises, fish, game and meat is often local, and vegetables and produce may also be from the lodges own gardens but will certainly where possible be of local origin, especially in the summer. For those catering their own meals, a barbecue under the stars, or a hearty home—cooked meal in a warm cabin will be equally enjoyable.

As well as the excellent food, it is the conversation shared at the table that is often one of the most pleasurable parts of a backcountry vacation. With little diversion from the outside world, the art of good conversation returns, and long—lasting friendships can often be made. A backcountry lodge is only as good as the people who operate it and work there. They play the role of social hosts amongst many other things, and it is their job to ensure that during the evening the conversation flows, and to be certain that everybody is enjoying themselves. Different people have different ideas of a good time; some may like to partake in board or card games, while for others good discussion and debate over a better bottle of wine will suffice.

Finally as the log fire fades, its time for maybe one more liqueur and then bed. Hear the sounds of the nocturnal wildlife while dozing off for the night in a log cabin, with a wood burning stove and a feather duvet for warmth. In the backcountry with fresh air and plenty of exercise sleep tends to come easily.

Heather Mountain Lodge, Golden BC (photo courtesy of Heather Mountain Lodge)

Activities
The Canadian Rockies offer year round activities. Many lodges have limited access—some have no road and the only way in is by cross—country skis, hiking or on horseback. There are certain lodges that can only be accessed by helicopter or floatplane. A perfect example can be found in the Purcell Mountain Lodge, in Golden, BC. Only accessible by helicopter, visitors enjoy a 15 minute flight to the edge of Glacier National Park, and 2200 meters (7200 feet) to the lodge atop Bald Mountain. At the lodge, guests can enjoy acres of pristine snow (or lush mountain meadows) and crisp mountain air, luxury amenities like their popular sauna and gourmet dining.

Thus getting to and from the lodge often forms a major part of the total experience. Because of this, skiing in winter and horseback riding and hiking in the summer form major components of the activities at many lodges, most of which have staff who are experts in these fields and during the day lead trips and expeditions on ski or horseback. Their knowledge and training for what can be risky activities in isolated country is invaluable. Heli skiing and heli hiking—where a helicopter takes participants high up into the mountains is also available at or close to many lodges.

Of course, getting to the lodge can be an adventure even while standing firmly on the ground. Take a journey to Lake Louise, Ab, and Brewster's Shadow Lake Lodge, the ideal multi-season backcountry lodge. Found twenty km (12.5 mi) west of Banff along Highway 1, and then an additional 14 km (9mi) which visitors can hike or ski cross-country to the lodge, Brewster's is at once both reclusive and accessible. All around the lodge, visitors can explore pristine snowcapped mountains and lush valleys while enjoying afternoon tea or gourmet dining.

Other activities include those revolving around nature and wildlife. Some guests come (especially in summer) to observe and enjoy the local flora and fauna. Once again the lodge staff are experts in the area and will often lead hikes with a nature theme and know how to view wildlife safely. The backcountry of the Canadian Rockies is the place to see black and grizzly bears, moose, deer, elk, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, cougars, lynx—the list is a long one. For ornithologists, there is also a great range of bird life in the Rockies. Rare alpine flowers and plants are another attraction that can be enjoyed in the backcountry. In more developed and visited areas nature has often, to a certain extent, withdrawn.

Fishing is another activity that has tremendous potential in the Rockies. Many lodges are close to trout—filled streams and rivers. There are some lodges that specialize in fishing and are located next to unspoiled and carefully managed lakes. Rainbow, cutthroat, bull and brook trout as well as the ubiquitous Rocky Mountain whitefish—amongst others—provide great sport for fishermen of all abilities. Licensing requirements for BC and Alberta are fairly strict. While few people object to a very limited amount of fish being taken to enjoy as food, a 'catch and release' policy is strongly encouraged and often mandatory. There is often a limit of one fish for use as a trophy, and more and more the use of fibreglass trophy fish is preferred as a symbol of that great catch. The real fish gets to live another day and perhaps provide great sport for another fisherman. There can be restrictions on the type of hooks and lures that are allowed. Needless to say fresh lake and river fish are often on the menu for supper, whether it be grilled on the barbecue outside a simple cabin or expertly prepared by a lodge's gourmet chef.

Backcountry lodgings also provide an excellent opportunity for an informal meet and greet. Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge, in Jasper, Ab, for example, only sleeps 6, but Tonquin Valley tours take up to 18 people on grand adventures throughout the Alberta backcountry before returning them to chalet style accommodations and home cooked meals.

	Cathedral Mountain Lodge, Field, BC (photo courtesy of Cathedral Mountain Lodge)

The Final Choice
With so many backcountry lodges to choose from the final decision can be difficult. Some people like to have access to a road so that they can use their vehicle to visit nearby places of interests or facilities. Many lodges are in this category, and are in relatively isolated and unspoiled places but do have highway access. These range from simple self—catering cabins with kitchen facilities to luxury adventure lodges with fine dining and opportunities for a full range of organized leisure and sports activities.

The truly isolated lodges that are only accessible by ski, horseback, on foot or by aircraft also range in level of comfort offered. Some of these can be simple with no running water, but are nonetheless well run with all necessities being provided. A few are truly delux, with gourmet chefs, luxury cabins with every amenity and truly offering the finest in skiing, riding or whatever their recreational emphasis is.

For those who prefer to cater their own food needs, many lodges offer kitchens with their cabins. Other lodges include all meals as part of a complete package (American plan) while others have restaurants and dining rooms but give their guests the choice of whether or not they want to eat there. Self—catering can be a problem (but not impossible) at the very isolated lodges, because there is a limit to the amount of food that visitors can bring in on skis, horseback or even by helicopter.

The backcountry of the Canadian Rockies offers leisure and recreational opportunities that are increasingly difficult to find in unblemished surroundings. The Canadian Rockies region draws in visitors from all over the world who want to savour the unique environment. The backcountry provides what visitors expect. Whatever a visitor's choice of lodge and activity, the backcountry adventure experience will always be a remarkable one.

PHOTOS COURTESY

1. Brewsters Shadow Lake Lodge
2. Heather Mountain Lodge
3. Heather Mountain Lodge
4. Cathedral Mountain Lodge