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Harriet
Tubman |
I'm on my way to Canada
That cold and distant land
The dire effects of slavery
I can no longer stand
Farewell, old master.
Don't come after me.
I'm on my way to Canada
Where coloured men are free.
© the Book Society of Canada
Canada has the reputation
of the frozen north, but to Martin Luther King and thousands of other black
Americans, Canada was a sort of North Star—a gleaming beacon of hope that
they followed and fought their way to. From 1840 to 1860, Canada emblemized
freedom from oppression, and it was there that many brave enslaved people risked
their lives to enter. This struggle was known as the Underground Railroad. To
Canadians today, a railroad is merely a means of transporting goods. Back then
the commodity being transported was people and their families, and the lives
of thousands were held in a delicate balance as they followed the obscure, jagged
and dangerous tracks to their destination: liberation.
HISTORY
The struggles of black Americans began as early as the 1600s, when thousands
were plucked from their homes in Africa and brought to the newly-formed United
States of America to be slaves to the Europeans that were settling there
in copious numbers. They were sold into slavery by people and organizations
richer and more politically powerful than they, in exchange for European goods.
Once brought across the ocean to America, their ownership was promptly transferred
over to their new masters. Slavery was widespread, but after the American Revolution—from
1775 to 1783—slaves were rare in the northern states, and instead populated
the southern areas, often working long hours in cotton fields.
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| Rewards
offered for the return of slaves |
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The life of a slave was
a hard one, and many had to work for hire after completing the physically demanding
tasks of their master just to make ends meet. Slaves were often beaten by their
masters and experienced extreme abuse at the hands of white supremacists, including
the Klu Klux Klan.
In the 19th century, an
abolitionist movement started to form whose aim was to abolish slavery in the
United States. Between 1780 and 1804, the northern United States started to
gradually discontinue slavery practices, but the institution remained a strong
force in the south and despite strong abolitionist protests, the Constitution
of the Unites States did not allow for intervention in the South. A gradual
emancipation was proposed in 1849, but Northern Abolistionists did not believe
this was enough and rallied to have slavery ended immediately. In the meantime,
African Americans in the south fueled the fire by forming movements of their
own and suggesting that slavery went against the bible, an implication that
tread offensively on the feet of zealously religious Southerners. Two white
abolitionist, William Lloyd Garrison and Wendell Phillips, even went so far
as to burn the constitution, claiming it was a "pact with slavery."
In the years before 1865,
when the passage of the Thirteenth Amendment to the constitution abolished slavery,
slaves and supporters of the abolistionist movement fought tirelessly against
the system by forming the Underground Railroad. Many of them headed for Canada,
where slavery had been abolished in 1793.
THE ROUTE
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Harriet Tubman
Of all the conductors
on the Underground Railroad, Harriet Tubman is perhaps the most well-known.
An escaped slave herself, she risked her freedom several times to help
other fugitives find their way to Canada, and her bravery led to her being
labeled the "Moses of Coloured People." Tubman proudly boasted
that she "never lost a passenger". She worked as a spy for the
North during the civil war and, once it was over, acted as an activist
for women's rights. She died in Auburn, New York in 1913.
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The route along the underground
was a dangerous one that involved stealthy jaunts between different safehouses
along the way. Safehouses were inconspicuous places— usually residences—owned
or run by railroad conductors, who were people that supported the abolitionist
movement and put themselves in considerable danger to support the cause. Conductors
included white, free-born black and Aboriginal people, and they guided the way
by organizing meet-ups and transportation for their cargo. Some also posed as
slaves to spend a few days working on a plantation, spreading the word of freedom
and enticing other slaves to join the movement. Along the way, stations
and depots were made available for runaways to sleep and eat in. These
were run by stationmasters who purportedly placed a lantern on a hitching
post outside their home to signify a station. Stockholders provided the
money necessary for the journey, which was donated by the many supporters. The
only safe method of communication was via word of mouth, and there was a password
passed among the participants of the railroad to signify where their loyalties
stood: A friend of a friend (often confused with a friend with friends.)
Conditions on the railroad
were extremely difficult, and some report walking for days on end with nothing
to eat but leaves. The majority of people who made it on the railroad were men
under 40—the route was said to be too difficult for women, children and
elderly slaves.
Not surprisingly,
the underground railroad was an outrage to the people who reaped the benefits
of slavery in the south, and fugitive slave laws were passed, forcing the return
of runaway slaves. In addition, many pro-slavery individuals and organizations
offered large rewards for the return of wayward slaves, which lead to a surge
in bounty hunters who would follow the railroad as far as they could in order
to collect their rewards. All too often, a free-born slave was apprehended and
sold into slavery, the documents proving their status destroyed by the slave
catchers.
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| Salem
Chapel, St. Catharines 1 |
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St.
Catharines, Ontario
was the Canadian Hub for the Underground Railroad and marked the end terminus
to many people's long journeys. However, many other cities were final destinations
for slaves, such as Windsor,
Chatham, Niagara
Falls, Hamilton,
Toronto, London,
Kingston and
Collingwood, to
name a few. Some routes lead elsewhere in Canada, to places as far as Nova
Scotia and British Columbia.
Altogether, about 30,000 slaves entered Canada, and though it retained the status
of a free country, discrimination still existed. When the Union Army recruited
soldiers to help fight the south, many ex-slaves re-entered the United States
to support the cause, though some stayed and established firm routes in Canada.
HISTORY REMEMBERED: Attractions
commemorating the Underground Railroad
The North American Black
Historical Museum
Amherstburg,
Ontario is located just south of Windsor, across the river from Detroit.
One of the first areas settled by black refugees, the town now offers the chance
to go back in time at the North
American Black Historical Museum. The museum chronicles black history,
from African roots and traditions right up to the modern day achievements made
by notable African Americans and Canadians. The museum was opened in 1975 and
has since become a National Historic site.
Within the site's boundaries
is the famous AME Nazrey Church National Historic Site. The stone walls were
carefully erected by black refugees in 1848 and they're still standing today,
a testament to the strong will of the church's builders. Nearby, Taylor Log
Cabin also still stands, even though it's been around since 1812, when refugee
George Taylor set up camp in Amherstburg.
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Josiah
Henson House 2 |
The Buxton Settlement
National Historic Site
Today, the Buxton
Settlement commemorates the Underground Railroad and early Black settlements
in Canada. When the settlement first began in 1849, the goal was different:
to offer Black fugitives from the USA a chance to start a new life of freedom.
The land of the Buxton Settlement was owned by Rev. William King, which he bought
for former slaves escaping their fate. The land was divided and sold to refugees
for affordable rates, and a community was formed, one which helped escapees
flourish and even allowed several of them to go on to university-level studies.
Now operated by descendants of the original settlers, the settlement is mostly
preserved and offers a one-of-a-kind glimpse into a place that was once the
promised land for many. The original Buxton was surrounded by wilderness on
all sides, but today it is just off the 401 freeway near Chatham-Kent.
Windsor Underground Railroad
Memorial
The City Hall Esplanade of Downtown Windsor is adorned with some important reminders
of the city's past—several statues
that depict figures and scenes from the time when slaves fled the USA. Windsor's
neighbour city, Detroit, also offers a similar collection at the Hart Plaza
Riverfront. This is no coincidence—sculptor and prominent African American
Ed Dwight built both sets of statues to commemorate the connection to the Underground
Railroad that Canada and the USA share.
The Sandwich First Baptist
Church National Historic Site
Also situated in Windsor, Sandwich
Baptist Church was one of the first stops for many refugees when they
entered Canada. Because of its proximity to the USA, the church was also a centre
for people trying to keep in touch and get updates on the families and friends
they left behind. Spirits were high as the congregation erected a stone church
in 1851, which still stands today and commemorates the efforts of the brave
people who built it.
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| Uncle
Tom's Cabin Historic Site 3 |
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Uncle Tom's Cabin Historic
Site
The life of Reverend Josiah Henson is remembered at Uncle
Tom's Cabin Historic Site in Dresden,
where the plight of fugitive slaves is commemorated and recognized through a
series of artifacts and displays. The grounds surrounding the land were originally
part of the Dawn Settlement, a sort of refugee camp for slaves on the run. Within
the historic site, visitors can take in a presentation at the North Star Theatre,
or visit one of the many structures including the Underground Railroad Freedom
Gallery, the old sawmill, the smokehouse, the home of Josiah Henson, the Henson
Family cemetery and the Pioneer Church. Interpretive programs and tours are
also available.
Salem Chapel
Salem
Chapel, also known as the British Methodist Episcopal Church of St.
Catharine's, is known as the Canadian headquarters for Harriet Tubman, who lived
in St. Catharines from 1851 to 1858. The church was built in 1855 as a hub for
escaped slaves. It was a place to gather, socialize, establish relationships,
receive news from home, set up roots, organize connections and much more.
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An
exhibit at the St. Catharines Museum 4 |
John Freeman Walls Historic
Site and Underground Railroad Museum
Set upon the land that was known as the end terminus in Windsor for the Underground
Railroad, this
family-run museum is operated by descendants of John Freeman Walls.
An escaped slave, his trials and tribulations are documented in The Road That
Led to Somewhere, written by Dr. Bryan Walls, also one of his descendants. While
visiting the museum, visitors can see the original log cabin that Walls built
on a foundation of only four rocks, as well as the cemetery, chapel and more.
St. Catharines Museum
The St.
Catharines Museum commemorates the rich history of the city. One of
its remarkable features is its award-winning Follow the North Star exhibit,
which chronicles the experiences of slaves making a new home for themselves
in Canada. Also, while in St. Catharines, those interested in the Underground
Railroad can take a city-wide tour of the important sites, told with historical
context garnered by local experts.
Black History Month
Black History Month is commemorated in February of each year. Each historic
site offers its own way of recognizing the month. Those in the Owen Sound area
in February are in luck—the Grey
Roots Museum presents a Black History-themed film festival and exhibit.
Why February? It's believed this month was chosen because it is the birth month
of both renowned abolitionist Frederick Douglass and former US President Abraham
Lincoln.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF:
- City of St. Catharines;
Salem Chapel; St. Catharines, ON, Canada
- Weese Photography
c/o the Ontario Heritage Trust; Josiah Henson House; Dresden, ON, Canada
- Weese Photography
c/o the Ontario Heritage Trust; Uncle Tom's Cabin Historic Site; Dresden,
ON, Canada
- St. Catharines Museum;
Taking in an exhibit at the St. Catharines Museum; St. Catharines, ON, Canada
